Pricing & estimating

Seasonal Pricing for Drainage Work: What Actually Changes

A 148-foot trench in March takes the same pipe and the same stone as the one in August, and about a day and a half longer to finish.

A 148-foot trench in March takes the same pipe and the same stone as one in August. Same 4-inch perforated, same washed stone, same fabric, same outfall.

What's different is that the spoil won't stay on the tarp, the mini-ex leaves ruts you now have to fix, the crew loses half a day to a storm cell, and the sod you lay over it in April has a much better chance of taking than the sod you lay in July. Some of that costs you money. Some of it saves you money. Most contractors price the whole season one way and never separate the two.

This post is about which parts of a wet-season job genuinely cost more, how to put a number on them from your own job history, and why the honest move is usually to hold your price in the busy months and go find cheap work in the slow ones.

Four things change in the wet season, and only three of them cost you money

Start by separating the cost drivers instead of applying one vague "winter premium."

  • Production rate drops. Wet ground digs slower, spoil sticks to the bucket, and moving material across a soft yard takes longer. This is the biggest one and the easiest to measure.
  • Lost and half days go up. You show up, it's raining sideways, you go home. Or you get three hours in before the trench starts collapsing. You still paid the crew.
  • Restoration gets harder and riskier. Ruts, tracked mud outside the work area, lawn that needs more than a rake and seed. More material, more hours, and a higher chance of a call-back.
  • Diagnosis gets better. This one saves you money. Water is visible, so you're not guessing at the source, and you sell the right fix the first time. We wrote about that in reading a yard in the rain.

Notice what isn't on that list: materials. Stone, pipe, fabric and basins cost roughly what they cost regardless of month. Supplier pricing moves with the commodity market and with your volume, not with the weather. So a flat "add 15% to the whole job in winter" is wrong on its face — it marks up the half of your bid that didn't change.

Find your own production hit before you price it

The number you need is simple: how much longer does the same work take when the ground is wet. You almost certainly have enough history to get within range.

Pull six jobs from your files — three from your driest stretch, three from your wettest. Pick jobs that are similar in scope, not identical. For each one, write down two numbers: trench feet and total crew hours on site.

Say your three dry jobs come out at 142 ft / 34 hours, 96 ft / 24 hours, 180 ft / 41 hours. That's 418 feet in 99 hours, or 418 ÷ 99 = 4.2 feet per crew hour.

Your three wet jobs: 148 ft / 46 hours, 110 ft / 32 hours, 88 ft / 29 hours. That's 346 feet in 107 hours, or 346 ÷ 107 = 3.2 feet per crew hour.

The ratio is 4.2 ÷ 3.2 = 1.31. On those jobs, wet ground cost you about 31% more crew hours for the same footage.

That's your number, not mine. In a sandy market with good drainage, the gap might be 10%. In heavy clay on a slope, contractors tell us it runs a lot higher than 31%. The point is that you can find yours in twenty minutes with a folder of old jobs, and then you're not guessing.

If your job files don't have crew hours on them, that's the actual problem. Start writing down four numbers per job — job costing without enterprise software covers which four and how to keep it to five minutes a day.

Apply the premium to labour, not to the whole bid

Here's the same 148-foot job priced twice, using the 1.31 factor. Assume a loaded crew rate — wages, burden, truck, small tools — that you've calculated for your own shop. Most contractors land somewhere in the $55 to $85 per crew hour range depending on market and crew size, but use yours.

I'll use $65 for the arithmetic so you can swap in your own figure.

LineDry groundWet ground
Crew hours (148 ft)35 hrs46 hrs
Labour at $65/hr$2,275$2,990
Excavator, 2 days vs 3$560$840
Pipe, stone, fabric, basins$3,150$3,150
Spoil haul-off$420$560
Restoration$680$1,150
Direct cost$7,085$8,690

That's a $1,605 difference, or about 23% more direct cost — on a job where the materials line didn't move at all. Spoil haul-off went up because wet spoil weighs more per yard and swells worse; if you're not already accounting for that, swell and shrinkage on a 148-foot trench works it through.

Restoration is the line that surprises people. It nearly doubled. That's not padding — it's ruts that need topsoil rather than a rake, tracked mud on a driveway that needs pressure washing, and plywood or ground mats you didn't need in August.

Now put your margin on top of the wet number the same way you would any other job. You're not charging a seasonal surcharge. You're charging what the job costs.

The restoration risk is the part nobody prices

Direct cost is knowable. Call-back risk is a probability, and you price probabilities with an expected value, not a guess.

Run it like this. Over your last two seasons, how many wet-season jobs generated a return trip for lawn repair, settlement or re-seeding? Say it's 4 out of 18. That's a 22% rate. What does an average return trip cost you — two crew hours, materials, and the drive? Say $340 all in.

Then 0.22 × $340 = $75 per wet-season job, and that's what you'd add to every one of them to break even on call-backs across the season.

Seventy-five dollars on an $8,000 job isn't the point. The point is that when you run this on your own numbers and the call-back rate comes back at 40% with a $600 average trip, you're looking at $240 a job and a clear signal that you should be doing something different — deferring restoration to spring, excluding it from the wet-season scope, or not taking soft-ground work at all in February.

Deferring is usually the right answer. Finish the drainage, rough-grade, and write the final restoration as a spring return at a stated date with a stated scope. The homeowner gets a lawn that actually takes. You get to do the work on firm ground at your dry-season production rate. Just make sure the deferral is written into the scope on the proposal, not agreed verbally in the driveway — the scope language that prevents arguments is the same language that keeps a deferred restoration from turning into a dispute in May.

Lost days are a calendar problem, not a per-job problem

The instinct is to add a rain contingency to each wet-season bid. That gets awkward fast: you're charging a specific homeowner for weather that might hit a different job entirely.

Lost days belong in your overhead recovery, which means they belong in your loaded hourly rate. Here's the arithmetic.

Count your actual billable field days last year. Not calendar days — days a crew was on a job producing. Say your crew worked 186 billable days across the year out of roughly 250 available weekdays, and you know from your own notes that 22 of those missing days were weather.

Your annual overhead — yard, insurance, office, the truck payment, your own unbilled time — divided by 186 days is your daily overhead recovery. If overhead is $96,000, that's $96,000 ÷ 186 = $516 per billable day. If you'd built your rate on 208 days instead, you'd be recovering $96,000 ÷ 208 = $462 — and losing $54 a day, every day, all year.

Over 186 days that's roughly $10,000 of overhead you never collected. That's what an optimistic calendar costs. Rebuild your rate on the days you actually worked, and the rain is already priced in across every job you sell.

Book cheap work in the slow months instead of discounting the busy ones

Now the part that most contractors have backwards.

In your busy season, you're turning down work or booking it six weeks out. Every job you discount in that window displaces a job you could have sold at full price. The discount doesn't win you volume — you already had volume. It just costs you margin on work you'd have gotten anyway.

In your slow season the math inverts. Your overhead runs whether or not the truck leaves the yard. Insurance, the shop, the loan, your phone. If a job covers its own direct costs and contributes anything above them, it's making your year better than an empty day.

Say that same job's direct cost is $8,690. Your normal price with margin is $12,400. In February, with three open weeks on the board, a $10,200 price still contributes $10,200 − $8,690 = $1,510 toward overhead you're paying anyway. That's $1,510 you don't get from an empty calendar.

Three rules keep this from becoming a habit that eats you:

  1. Never price below direct cost. Contribution margin only works if it's positive. Below your true direct cost, every job makes the year worse, and volume makes it worse faster.
  2. Say out loud why the price is what it is. "This is a February rate because my crew is available and I'd rather work than not. In April this same job is $12,400." Now it's a scheduling trade, not a discovery that you had $2,200 of air in your price all along.
  3. Put a date on it. A slow-season price that's still honoured in May trains every customer to wait. Write the expiry into the proposal.

The distinction matters when someone pushes back on a busy-season number. A homeowner who's found a cheaper bid isn't asking about seasonality — they're asking about scope, and what a cheaper drainage bid actually includes is a better response than a discount. Save the seasonal pricing conversation for the months when it's actually true.

What to change in your estimate before next wet season

None of this requires new software. It requires two versions of a few numbers.

  • Build a wet-ground version of your standard estimate template with the labour hours and restoration line already adjusted by your measured factor. If you're already working from templates, this is a copy and two edits — reusable estimate templates covers what stays job-specific.
  • Rebuild your loaded hourly rate on billable days actually worked, not weekdays available.
  • Add a standing scope line for deferred restoration with a return-visit window, so you're not writing it fresh under pressure in the driveway.
  • Decide your slow-season floor — your true direct cost — and write it somewhere you'll see it in January. Not a number you'll re-derive while a homeowner watches you think.

A note on tracking this properly: ScapesHQ doesn't do job costing or actuals. There's no place in it to log the 46 hours that job really took, so the production-rate math above has to come out of your own records — a spreadsheet, a notebook, whatever payroll gives you. What it does hold is the estimate and the proposal, with the scope wording, the options and the signature evidence on the record, so a deferred restoration you agreed in March is still findable in May when the homeowner calls.

Seasonal pricing isn't a premium you apply. It's the same estimate, run twice, with the lines that actually change adjusted by a factor you measured.

FAQ

Should I charge more for drainage work in the winter?

You should charge what the job costs, and in wet ground it usually costs more — mostly in crew hours, spoil handling and restoration, not in materials. Measure your own production rate in wet versus dry conditions and apply that factor to the labour lines only. A flat percentage across the whole bid marks up materials that didn't change.

How do I figure out how much slower my crew works in wet conditions?

Pull three jobs from your driest stretch and three from your wettest. Divide total trench feet by total crew hours for each group to get feet per crew hour, then divide the dry rate by the wet rate. That ratio is your seasonal labour factor. It varies a lot by soil — sandy markets see a small gap, heavy clay sees a large one.

Is it better to discount in the busy season or take cheap work in the slow season?

Slow season, almost always. In your busy months a discount displaces a full-price job you'd have booked anyway, so it costs you pure margin. In slow months your overhead runs regardless, so any job priced above its direct cost contributes something an empty day doesn't. Just never go below true direct cost, and put an expiry date on the price.

Should I include lawn restoration in a wet-season drainage quote?

Often it's better to defer it. Sod and seed laid in saturated or frozen ground frequently fails, and you eat the return trip. Finish the drainage, rough-grade, and write the final restoration as a spring return visit with a stated scope and window — in the written proposal, not as a driveway handshake.

How do I price rain days without charging one customer for weather on another job?

Put lost days into your overhead recovery rather than into individual bids. Count the days your crew was actually on a job producing last year, divide annual overhead by that number, and use the result in your loaded rate. Basing the rate on available weekdays instead of worked days quietly leaves thousands of dollars of overhead uncollected.

The short version

Wet-season drainage jobs cost more in crew hours, spoil handling and restoration — not in materials — so apply a measured factor to those lines instead of a blanket percentage on the whole bid. Find your factor by dividing feet per crew hour on three dry jobs by three wet ones. Then rebuild your loaded rate on billable days actually worked so rain is already priced in, and hold your price in the busy months while selling cheaper work in the slow ones, where anything above direct cost beats an empty calendar.

Book a walkthrough and we'll look at how your wet-season estimates read next to your dry-season ones.

See this run on a real job

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